So, usually, when we find out that designers reference too closely to other great designers, ( namely, Helmut Lang, Geoffrey Beene and Ter et Bantine and a hint of Altuzarra ), we would be so upset, however, Ms Philo, created a collection so exciting that she’s forgiven…

Geoffrey Beene  (above) , Helmut Lang ( Left), Altuzarra (right)

After much anticipation, Ms Sander’s first collection for her women’s line, in my personal opinion, was a monumental fail. I had so wanted to say that this was a success and a step forward from Raf’s years at the helm, but unfortunately, this was a somewhat of a dated minimal aesthetics, if that is even possible. The material, proportion, shoes… well everything seems a bit dated and matronly. I hope and will be rooting for Ms. Sander’s next showing and I’m sure that it will be a better collection…fingers crossed.

one word —  M  E  M  P  H  I S

Ms. Castiglioni seemingly too a step back with her vibrant colour blocking for this collection… but take a closer look and you will see that even with some restraints, her use of graphic prints and new silhouettes fills that colour void. Less is definitely more in this case.

Almost as if you can see how his mind is shredding up his Joan Miró and Malick Sidibé references and piecing them together on each of his pieces, Michael’s spring offering is a colourful and joyous mix of separates and dresses that is a must next spring.

Not quite an advocate for caged birds myself, but Thakoon might have just converted me to keep some as pets, on his dresses that is. Beautifully embroidered and rather magical really, this is really one of his best collection yet.

So the PS boys are celebrating as their first stand alone boutique opens but they have more the celebrate as this collection has just pinned them to amongst the tops of Fashion week musts. Collage and Montage are the operative words here as colorful reptile skins clashes to form jackets  and photo-images weaves with colour blocks to form dresses. And not forgetting the craft elements that started as an exploration is fast becoming a signature in a PS collection. All I should do is stop writing and let you enjoy the show.

WOW. Hats off to Mary who is able to create collections after collections that are at a glance ( even a mile away ) distinctively hers. This collection she has taken us on a whirlwind journey around the world with … STAMPS! Beautifully crafted, the stamps prints gave the collection an instant sense of travel and holiday. For the evening, she moved from STAMPS to another collector’s favorite, MONEY. Swirls and repeated lines and motifs weave throughout the dresses creating a moray of wonders. Who says collecting STAMPS and MONEY are not fashionable..?

Still relative young in fashion years, but Christopher’s slow and steady approach is definitely working with the fashion insiders. This collection showcased how far he has come since his first collection of parkas made from parachute nylons. Here, he demonstrated the innovative use of lace, laminated and water-proof no less, and how he has evolved with his cut and styling. Lace raincoat… who would have thought!

“It’s erotic again!” proclaimed Francisco Costa backstage. Can stoic minimal restraint be erotic sensual and sexy? Francisco is the only master that can meld them into a stunning collection. Picture the sensual curves of Oscar Niemeyer’s Brasilia Architecture and the sexy lines on a sports car and mould that image onto a female body… that’s how you do eroticism Francisco way.

Alexander Wang came out of nowhere and now, he’s everywhere. With new flagships opening at break neck speed, his is fast forming his own tribe of fierce urban female kinds. For Spring 2013, his tribes will be only be in strict black and white. Stripes and patterns inspired by animal prints but so graphic and sharp it hurts. Dresses made up of panels that seems to float is obviously the future of things to come. Directional, innovative and desirable, no wonder his tribes are getting bigger everyday.

The shoes, the colors, the dresses and laminated-wood paillette embroidery..! That’s enough to get my attention. Narciso never fails to excite the editors during NYC week.

I need this bag! Fucking brilliant. By Undercover.